Kenya Notebook

{text and 5 poems}

Friday 25^th July 2008 - 2:45pm

Flight.

I start writing this log 37K feet above Libya, over the Sahara Desert - as I look out of the plane and downward, all I can see is orange - sand covers the earth as far as the eye can see in all directions; since we passed the North African coast flying south, parched, scorched earth has dominated the landscape, hour after hour...

Awesome journey.  After leaving Heathrow - 10 minutes to the coast, bouffant clouds across the channel, into patchwork fields of Northern France.  Very soon, the Rhone valley, a deep scar running down the east side of France; we banked east - the Alps appear, majestically covered in snow.  Before too long, we hit the Cote d'Azure and the Mediterranean flashes - shimmering by.  Caught Corsica, Sardinia, flew over the west side of Sicily and soon spotted Malta, like a jewel in the iridescent blue sea - a tiny, tiny island, the whole thing clear as a bell.  Another stage across the southern Med and then.... Libyan coast spread out staggeringly in both directions - Africa - no sign of life, any roads, habitation - NOTHING, except sand...

Halfway there now - am in unexplored territory and heading further south than I have ever been; excitement mounts...

As the time rolls by, names appear on the flight screen - Darfur (terror, war, famine), Khartoum, Addis Ababa (romance, intrigue, history), meanwhile the view is always the same, sand, hour after hour.  The globe turns and the sun's glare softens, cumulus clouds appear beneath like so much cotton wool - empty, peaceful and desolate.... southern Sudan.

Sunset is absolutely glorious!  Recently flew through a storm - littl'un (Alexis) grew scared, massive clouds banked, stretching up to way over 50K feet - lightening flashes, turbulence; we are now reaching equatorial country, softer, greener, mountainous, what a wonderful view of our lovely planet...

Saturday 26^th July 2008

We arrived in Nairobi at 9:15pm last night - talk about an African welcome, queued for 2 hours to get our visas, only to discover that half of our luggage had been left in UK!!  Eventually picked up by Celestine, my sister-in-law, arrived home after midnight!!  A bumpy, darkened ride down the Mombasa road to South ‘C', warm welcome from my little Kenyan family, hastily bolted down pilau and hit the sack...

Slept soundly and awoke to a grey winter's morning...

Went for a day out in downtown Nairobi - spent pleasant time walking around, absorbing all the sights and sounds of a new world.  After lunch in the Kenyatta Conference Centre, we took a matatu -  (matatu = Kenyan minibus: a form of transport ubiquitous to the Kenyan) - to Nairobi Safari Park animal sanctuary - saw lions, leopards, monkeys, hyena, cheetah, ostrich - lovely, lovely place, which served to whet my appetite for seeing these majestic animals in their natural habitat...

Sunday 27^th July 2008

Brrr...Kenyan winter - a cool, grey morning.  Sat, without ceremony, on the edge of my bed, niece Mimi preparing for Uni. exams in the living room, Terri (my wife) getting up eventually, showering, dressing in my midst... Need to think about picking up the rest of our luggage from the airport this morning............can't wait to get out of town and start exploring the country.

~ * ~

What a great day!!  Got a phone call from the airport - our bags have finally arrived - went off with Lynnet (niece #2) in a taxi to collect at Jomo - the taxi was falling apart (literally); the exhaust was shot and the fumes practically asphyxiated us! Having pulled the taxi over, the police spoke to Lynnet in Swahili - she later told me that they "advised her to tell the taxi driver to change his tyres!"  Nevertheless, was very happy to be reconnected with our luggage at last - having worn the same garments for almost 3 days, was extremely happy for a fresh shirt...

Lynnet and I then went down into town for the afternoon - it was wonderful, we checked out the Kenya National Archive and beheld amazing artefacts - weapons, tribal masks, sculptures, paintings and photographs documenting Kenyan history over the last 150 years; after, we went to Java Coffee house, had a great lunch and caught a matatu back home - Lynnet is sweet, pretty, intelligent and great company - I made a special friend today!!

~~~~~~~~~

Monday 28^th July 2008

Into Nairobi - Westlands, rented Toyota 4x4, ate ‘choma': (Bar-b-q meat - standard Kenyan fare)

Tuesday 29^th July 2008

SAFARI begins...

Nairobi - ► Emali  - ►  Amboseli National Park (Kilimanjaro): a six-hour bone-shaking drive through bush country...sighted rambling zebra, ostrich and giraffe.

~~~~~~~~~

Wednesday 30^th July 2008

Amboseli  ► Tsavo West National Park ► Voi

~ RIFT VALLEY PROVINCE ~

At last, animals - wild, in their natural habitat: lions, hippos, giraffe, dikdik, ostrich, elephants, wildebeest, buffalo, zebra, gazelle, hyena and impala: the beauty of Kilimanjaro and the Massai (altho' never saw the mountain, as covered in clouds!!) Stayed the night at the furiously expensive but awesomely luxurious Ol-tukai Lodge, bang in the heart of the park at the base of Kilimanjaro, surrounded by nature in its purity: swamp, march, papyrus bog, woodland scrubs and scattered trees, boreholes and Massai homesteads...that evening, I jammed with the resident local musician and bought him a few beers...  headed across Lake Amboseli, flat, white, salty and dried out; the next morning we drove out, escorted by an armed guard, who accompanied us in our vehicle to the edges of Tsavo West (more for show than safety, I feel).  We then drove through Tsavo West and visited the amazing and unexpected Mzima springs, watched lazy hippos enjoying an afternoon bathe and watched out for crocs, which mercifully did not appear!!

siafu = ant (in Swahili)

Thursday 31^st July 2008

Africa

*

oh wondrous continent!

today I drink deeply

of your

beauty...

my cup runs

over,

red ochre

subsuming

my will...

gladness of heart,

joy and gratitude

abundant...

deep in the visceral

womb of

this gentle

cradle of red

earth,

I open my heart,

my soul

unlocked;

I flow freely along

with the natural

breath of life...

golden light dispels

demons of slumber.

awakened, I

tread lightly, joyfully

over warm

sand that caresses

the soles of

my feet...

I seek nothing

‘cept

to

breath in

your blessings.

*~*

Voi

*

the natural rhythm

of early morning

function

engenders feelings

of

belonging and grace...

gentle folk,

following their routines,

murmur greetings -

extending

and

sharing warmth...

young school children

gaze in astonishment

and smile sweetly...

"jambo muzungu!"

jambo Kenya,

I

salute your longevity...

your grace and

beauty.

I die

each moment

into your arms

and

hope beyond hope

to

merge seamlessly

into the

depths of your

innate wisdom

and eternal

understanding..

*

Monday 4^th August 2008

So much has happened since last entry -

Arrived in Mombasa - funky little island city with all the expected delights - sights, sounds, smells, tastes - we found a brilliant Swahili eatery - the most delicious freshwater fish (Tilapia) and rice...mmmmmmmmm, mouth-watering -

Then on down the ‘south coast' - missed Diani beach by (well) about 60 km!!  Ended up close to Lunga Lunga - Tanzanian border!! Eventually found our way back to Ukunda and settled into a cheap apartment to our liking - about 2000 shillings per night, with swimming pool!  Alexis is in her element, spends all day every day in there.

I had my ‘Mr Bean moment' on  finally locating the beach (well hidden and totally obscured from the road) and glorious Indian Ocean...ahh, la mer!!!

Finally, a tropical paradise - it IS everything it is cracked up to be: warm sea, white sandy beaches, unspoiled by either development or developers, coconut palms litter the shoreline - every morning I make my way down there for meditation and a glorious swim...

Settle into a lazee holiday routine - early morning walk to the beach, back to base for breakfast, usually into Mombasa for lunch at ‘AP Swahili House' - crossing the estuary on that crazee ferry..ahh.............

Tuesday 5^th August 2008

Spiked by Indian

*

sea urchins pounce..

an

ocean that seeks

retribution for pleasures

gleaned...

iridescent

turquoise saltiness

remains a febrile

memory...

glorious tepid

water that entices

amnesia of all

in life that is

troubling,

an endless vista

of green, rolling

 waves beckons

further voyage,

out, out, out,

to coral reefs

that thunder

gently, ominously

in

the distance...

lying on my back

in shallow waters,

the ocean's debris

close neighbours

to my dreams...

floating aimlessly

in star-shaped circles;

life comes to

 a standstill

and I am

satiated,

destination

heaven...

*

Wednesday 6^th August 2008

Miritini

*

the

 merest glance

into

a crowded

downtown café

sparks an

adventure of

unparalleled

charm...

old friends meet

lives lived apart,

the warmth of

recognition

suffuses and

envelops both

families with joy

and happiness...

an invitation

eagerly accepted

to visit a regular

suburb of this

ramshackle

mombasan world...

oh! glorious

continent!

I take a stroll out of

town; the balmy afternoon

breeze takes the edge

off a vacant heat...

past local townsfolk who

acknowledge this

apparition - a ‘muzungu'

yet fellow traveller

ne'er the less,

strolling backwards

through time...

the azure blue of

 a cheery sky meets

red ochre earth at

a green, tree- spiked horizon

of gently rolling hills...

I amble down to a

fertile coconut grove

that, from a distance

appears deserted

yet,

upon arrival

is a hive of

activity...

It is only

the

 women who

toil in the

baking

afternoon sun,

washing clothes in

the stream,

digging into the red

soil,

sifting piles into

smooth cones,

ready for

brick construction...

tiny children

crocodile walk

through tall mangroves,

gaily chattering,

hardly pausing

to greet this

clumsy, ambling

stranger:

‘jambo jambo'...

I push on,

past hidden homesteads -

a village, out of

sight and

slumbering peacefully

in the

warm afternoon's

embrace...

 so this is how

the old world

was,

eternally reposing

without intent,

basking in

timeless

tranquillity...

gatherers,

embarking upon

simple tasks to

carry life's

momentum

irrevocably

forward...

just to dwell

in this

enduring landscape

amongst

regular folk

has induced

a peaceful harmony

that will remain

forever imprinted

upon my

soul.

*

Saturday 9^th August 2008

To the mountains...

Arrived at Djambini at about 4:30pm and checked into Gimwa Rest Lodge...

Nairobi  ► Naivasha ► North Kinangop  ► Djambini...

This has been a memorable Saturday! From trip into town with Lynnet, picking up bits and pieces for my safari, finding the place to catch the matatu, yes, even the perennial runs!

The drive from Nairobi centre, past Westlands, climbing up, up and eventually a spectacular view across the Rift Valley, although pretty misty, got a glimpse of its majesty!

Arrival and quick departure from Naivasha - a bustling and noisy shantytown, if I ever saw one..

A splendid climb up to corner of the Abedares and then dropped off at North Kinangop, very similar to a Wild West frontier town...  Felt a bit endangered as extremely rough looking customers abounded there (this is unabashed Kikuyu territory, site of the recent ‘troubles') - awaited another matatu bound for Djambini - but this was a rogue and soon left this bunch of guys in the hands of the police, who had apprehended and handcuffed one of the crew - I had already formed suspicions when the cab took a wrong turn...

I alighted and started walking in the opposite direction, having been assured this was the route to Djambini.

Walked on for about an hour through ramshackle countryside, people tilling the fields, a wonderful set of virgin forest mountains on the left hand side - children calling out and giggling...

Hitched a ride into the next town where I picked up a matatu to where I am now spending the night.

3 cups of ‘porridge' (Kenyan tea, for which I am beginning to acquire a taste) and a delicious plate of rice and vegetables later, I am cosily ensconced in my hotel room (500/- = £4) ready for my bed and wondering of the morrow - have set myself a 30km hike through wild jungle tomorrow - hope I make it!

‘Second Sunday in August':                                    10/08/08

Djambini ► Gattaka-ini ►Thika

6 hour walk : 30 km!!  Wow, have never been so exhausted, a six-hour trek through jungle - started off at 7:30am, lovely early morning, a deep blue sky, rural bliss, mountains nestling in the north east, Rift Valley spreading out south west...

A hasty egg + toast and ‘chai' and off I trundled...

When asked where I was headed, I said "Gattaka-ini."   "Vehicle?"  "On foot,"  I said, miming walking with my fingers...His eyes widened..."you know, plenty elephant and other wild animal there!"  I shrugged my shoulders, "I'll be okay!" 

Nevertheless, was seriously nervous when I hit the jungle, squeezing myself precariously  through an electronic fence into no-mans land...

I considered my options when I caught a whiff of the rank wilderness and smell of elephant dung...not one to back down, I swallowed my fear and marched on...

Clear evidence of recent elephant spoor lying all over the track, plus many broken trees, especially bamboo...

Finally came across a footprint, fresh in the mud - absolutely enormous!!

I continued on, listening with painstaking precision for sound of elephant in the mass of green jungle pushing into the cleared path - decided it is in God's hands and to accept my fate, whatever; besides, elephants are not carnivores and I'm a friendly sort of bloke!!

Many hours later, reached signs of human habitation, which was a blessed relief - I grabbed some transport one way and another to Thika, of literary fame...

Not overly impressed here in Thika - real dirty - got a room which was a pit, really noisy, smelly and dirty.  Nevertheless, took a well-needed shower (cold), freshened up and went for a mosey.  Do NOT find the locals (Kikuyu) very friendly or warm and they tend to laugh at me - ate a nondescript plate of chicken and chips in a darkened café and then looked around for a better place to stay - eventually settled on the ‘December Hotel', formerly a grand place (built in 1963 and opened by Kenyatta himself), now completely run to seed.............still, the better of 2 options; rested my weary bones and looked in alarm at a blackening big toe (right), hit the sack extremely early - about 7pm - but slept fitfully and eventually awoke around midnight, bathed, sat and settled back into another (more comfortable) bed...

Adventures over, I feel tremendously lucky to have got through the past 48 hours in one piece...bandits/wild elephant/etc...

Friday 15^th August 2008

Mombasa

*

behold!

the sharpness, intensity and clarity

of our golden

glowing

globe...

[occasionally obscured

 by winter clouds]

heat penetrates

body...

a call to prayer

penetrates

mind...

hot

dusty breaths

coalesce with

the romance

of

the yonder,

unimagined:

here - now!

the chaotic,

the innocent,

the corrupt,

the seductive,

the oppressive,

the mayhem..

merge deliciously,

uncomprehendingly

in a

‘otherly-world' beauty

that

bombards my

 spirit

all at once

with tears of

joy and sorrow..

ahh!!

you crazy,

gorgeous,

maddening

holy city on

this sun-kissed

corner of

Indian ocean,

how I relish this

momentary

submergence

into the

bowels

of your mystery

and

delight...

coming home to

this ancient birth

of cities,

a

re-acquaintance

with

open spirits

of incomprehension,

of togetherness..

I breathe deeply

of your eternal

scramble for survival

in a

conspicuously

ephemeral

and dangerous

dance of

life, hunger

love and death.

*

Tuesday 19^th August 2008

and finally...

Today was just memorable - a number of ‘firsts' that will forever remain etched in my memory bank...

Early start, stroll down to Diani beach, meditation alongside the gentle roar of the ocean - monkeys and a variety of tropical birds plying their morning chorus; the usual retinue of young guys, some picking shells, corals from the beach, others early-morning jogging, some practising their gymnastics, cart wheeling, back somersaults etc.. very few bother with me now.. 'Jambo papa!' is the most I get...

Chatting to a couple of guys and gals; Irene, a Luo lass from Kisumi, pretty as a picture, offering ‘massage', which I gently declined, chatted away about her life and family...

Tobias, from Tanzania, his family refugees from Mozambique (everyone has a story to tell), offers to take me out to the coral reef (about 2km out to sea).  I accept and agree to meet at 10ish...

Then back to the apartment for breakfast.  Littl'un already in the pool, splashing gaily in the bright early morning sunshine...

Back to the ocean and Tobias punts me out to sea in a wonderfully ancient and decrepit dugout mango tree canoe with stabilisers, gliding gently out to the reef...

I don a pair of goggles and a snorkel and spend the next hour in delightful abandon, gazing in wonderment at the amazing spectacle that is the coral reef; a new world of such splendour and intrigue - purple, green and yellow coral and all manner of sponge, lichen and sea life glisten and sparkle before me.  Shoals of wonderful, bizarrely coloured tropical fish queue up behind me accompanying me on my travels, gently nipping my legs when I stand up to clear my mask...

I spy lobster, a stripy sea snake, star fish - bright red and a infinitely varied assortment of shellfish.......I could have floated all day in this undersea paradise..

Further, went strolling along an isolated sandbank, picking up multicoloured shells and coral - a slow punt back to the beach, iridescent blue-green water, the sun sparkling off a tepid sea, gentle thunder of surf, palms swaying peaceably, naturally, along mile after mile of white sands, a moment of sublime perfection and satisfaction that lives on and on...

In the late afternoon, I pointed the 4 x 4 down the road to the Tanzanian border and drove down to Lunga Lunga, my ‘eldorado'  - a great drive through lush equatorial bush, through vibrant, peaceful and colourful villages all the way to the border, gently rolling hills encompassing the landscape -

Riding back to Ukunda in the gathering dusk, all the majesty and beauty of sub-tropical Africa unfolded before my eyes and I realised a love and deep connection with this ancient and splendid continent.

As the sun gradually sank beneath the horizon, all the depth and subtlety of the diminishing light infused the scenery with such intensity; my breath quickened and I felt myself immersed and allied with this place as only I have felt on two other occasions - once in the Sahara, south of the Atlas mountains in Ouazazarte, Maroc and secondly in Gosainkund, Nepal, early morning in the Himalayas...

These rare moments confirm in my heart the reality of the Divine in the mundane...

~ with bows,  20^th August 2008 ~

@ntony  lipski

~*~